
21st of October, is annually commemorated by Indian Police Forces for paying homage to those policemen who lay down their lives in the line of duty, during currency of their service. On this day in the treacherous inhospitable terrain of Aksai Chin region of Ladakh, a massacre of Central Reserve Police (CRP), sentinels stationed along the line of actual control (LAC) took place.
A Platoon of CRP lead by sub-inspector Karam Singh was ambushed by the Chinese army, they machine gunned 10 persons and took 7 personnel as prisoners, only few others managed to escape. In those days the job of border policing was entrusted to CRP, which was constituted as a specialized central force by the British Crown on 27th of July 1939. ITBP and BSF were raised later during 1962 and 1965 respectively.

Every year a police contingent, selected out of volunteer officers visits this location for paying homage to the police martyrs. During 1989, I was selected to lead a All India Police team traversing to this historic place.
On 19th August thirteen officers representing BSF, CRPF, Delhi, Gujarat, J&K(2), Haryana, Himachal, Karnataka, Manipur, Orissa, Panjab and Rajasthan, converged at BSF camp, Jammu. We were welcomed and briefed by DIG R K Pandit, BSF Jammu Range.
From 20th to 22nd August, we spent in Srinagar greatly enjoying relishing the picturesque scenic splendor of exotic Kashmir Valley. On 23rd morning we left for Leh in BSF bus, traversing the tough weather wrinkled terrain of Zojila (11573 ft.) stark Fatula (13479 ft.), the moonland, Lamayuru, oldest Buddhist monastary of Ladakh.
The mesmerizing descent through 22 hairpin bends of Hangaroo loop (Jalabi more), being a great hair raising experience.Night halting was at Channi Kund, here we relished the grand warm hospitality of Rajinder Thakur, commandant 92 BN. BSF.
24th to 31st of August we stayed at downtown Leh (10500 ft.), this period was reserved for our acclimatization. Here we got acquainted with Sonam Wangyal, Principal of Mountaineering Institute, Gangtok, Sikkim. HE had been specially invited for imparting us techniques for heartily traversing and staying healthy in the high altitude low oxygen content atmosphere.
Sonam a local Ladakhi lad still in his teens, was the member of ill fated police patrol of 21st October 1959. He narrated us the harrowing horrific experience of escaping unscathed from the jaws of Death, descended on Indian border guards, in form of cowardly Chinese attack.
Six years later during summer of 1965 he scaled Everest summit, at age of 23, became the youngest climber to accomplish this task. This earned him a Padam Shree on coming Independence day.During 1968, he received prestigious Arjuna Award, for displaying excellence in the field of sports.
Sonam helped us in getting acquainted with local weather conditions and terrain. In our outdoor sorties he familiarized us with the Leh township, and imparted skills for scaling heights by climbing nearby hill features. We visited Khardungla (18380 ft,), the highest navigable pass in the World, this connects strategic Nubra valley,Thoise, Diskit and Siachin, the highest cum coldest battlefield situated at 22,000ft. We also acquired a fairly good knowledge about geographical and historical significance of the famous Karakoram pass, a vital landmark of fabled ancient “silk route”. Cotrol over this vital geophysical feature linking different civilizations had always been a prized bone of contention.
In the local market had a chance meeting with a former SPG officer, who was posted in local CRPF unit, he hosted a sumptuous relishing dinner for our entire team.
On the morning of 1st September we left in three tonne truck, crossing Changla (17350 ft.), the second highest accessible pass of our Planet.
Lunch at Tangste was eagerly awaited, thereafter we reached picturesque Phobrang in high spirits after a pleasurable drive through the cold inhospitable desert.
Next two days were utilized in acclimatization, we had a splendid experience of trout fishing in cold highland streams.The local unit of Ladakh Scouts, commanded by Captain Bhinder from Mohali invited us for a lunch, which was arranged under the canopy of tent prepared out of Yak wool.
On 4th September accompanied by RS Rana AC our versatile guide and PC Tiwari, clever liaison officer we left for Lunkar. From here partly riding on horses and partly trekking we reached Bao, after crossing Marshmikla (18335 ft.) Camping on the bare cold hilly slope in snow tents was a chilling rare life time experience, we saw a small highland stream freezing within minutes of sundown. Next night halt was at ITBP Camp situated on a flat open ground known as Tsogtsalu, all ration/supplies here are were dropped by air by IAF transporters taking off from Chandigarh Air Force station.
On 6th September we ultimately reached our destination, after three days of hard tiring riding. At Hot Springs we banked on the incredible hospitality of Inspector Jai Singh and SI Dhayan Singh of ITBP. From this location we could clearly view the Chinese army positions and their vehicular movements.
On 7th September at 8.30 AM a solemn function was held at the well maintained Martyr’s memorial. ITBP guard reversed arms and a mandatory two minutes silence was observed. We were joined by two officers P Tsering, AD ITBF and Kulbe Commandant 111 Bn. ITBP, who flew by helicopter from Leh. Following the reverse route we reached Phobrang after three days of laborious journey, availed a much needed two days rest.
On 11th left for Chusul, driving miles along the picturesque banks of Pso Pangong, through the sandy and hilly mountainous region.The local Brigade Commander, met us and acquainted us about the general topographical layout and high vulnerability of this area, narrating us several interesting frontier tales.
On 12th September moving via Nyoma and Upshi, we had a brief halt at the Kumaon Memorial, later viewed a spectacular glimpse of majestic Indus meandering through the might mountains.We heaved a sigh of relief on reaching the safe haven of our base camp at Leh. This memorable memorial was raised in memory of 114 brave soldiers led by valorous Major Shaitan Singh Bhatti of 13 Kumaon Regiment. Major Bhatti was posthumously decorated with Param vir chakra for displaying his valorous gallantry. These fearless fighters sacrificed their lives at Rajlang pass while defending the honor of Indian motherland on 18th November 1962, against comfortable cum heavily outnumbered and better equipped Chinese troops.
The journey back to Jammu began a couple of days later, climbing down the hilly terrain had its own alluring charms. The crucial atmospheric pressure playing a sort of hide and seek with our eardrums while descending and ascending on meandering road over the high mountain peaks and passes.
The members of police fraternity finally bidding farewell at Jammu, dispersing back to our various locations across India, after 35 days togetherness appeared quite odd. As usual all partings are painful, but we all were duty bound to separate. No doubt separations are an inevitable part of our lives, it depends on us whether we bear these with smiles or sulks.
(Later the route was changed via Rohtang pass through Himachal Pradesh).
Author of this article is retired Deputy Commssioner of Delhi Police